By Gus Browning, printed in 73 Magazines in 1966-10
reprint by PA0ABM
Gus Browning story, Part 16
VQ9A Seychelles
Last month I was on Aldabra Island having a ball. After repairing the Teflon
needle valve with a hot soldering iron and getting my antennas broadside to
the USA and Europe, I was all set for the pile-ups.
I found that there were interesting things to observe on the islands, I saw the
Booby birds trying to battle their way thru with their craw full of fish every
evening (read last month's issue). Or take those coconut crabs that invaded
the back porch where I was operating every night. These are mean rascals
about twice the size of both of your fists when placed together. They just love
to sneak up on yon at night (they don't
come out in the daytime), and when you
are not watching all of a sudden they will
take a snip at your leg; I mean right up
under your pants cuffs. They are always fighting each other usually
every morning there were a number of dead ones laying around
that got killed during the night. I think they hate each other and think
nothing at all about "battling to their death" at the first sight of
another one. Sometimes when I awoke by the operating position in
the morning there even were a few dead ones on top of the table. I
suppose they climbed up on the table via the overhanging table
cloth. I guess they would make FB house pets if you did not want
any of your neighbors visiting you. One night I caught about 25 of
them and placed them in a large box so that I could take a picture of them the next day, but the next
morning every one of them was dead, I suppose they had a real battle royal in that box during the night.
All of them were snipped up pieces of coconut crabs were all over the box; not a whole one was to be
found.
Another interesting type of nightly visitor was some extra large
bats. I will tell you of my encounter with one of them the very
first night I was there. My operating table was on the back
unscreened porch, I had been noticing something flitting
between me and the light bulb a number of times, and thought
possibly it was a large candle fly or something like that. I had a
nice pile-up going, operating SSB on 20 meters. Someone had
just called me and I was about to jot down the call sign of the
station calling, but all of a sudden, something lit on top of my
partly bald head. This "thing" was straddling my headphone
band (the mike was also mounted from this headphone band )
and its claws were dug into my very thin hair and scalp. I
yelled into the mike, "Just a minute. Buddy, I got some trouble
here." Then I sort of sneaked my hand up to my head to feel
this thing that was on top of it, nice and soft, I quickly withdrew
my hand from this little fur covered thing setting on top of my
hair. I sort of froze up for a minute, and then decided this thing
had to be removed from my head. I had to either do something
or else sit there all night. I decided to do something and to do it
instantly, I grabbed this thing from my head, and threw it on the
floor, all in one single motion. Down on the floor went the
headphone, mike and this thing, which turned out to be a large
bat having a wing spread of about 20 inches. The poor
headphone and mike really slammed to the floor; I thought for sure they were nnned. The bat was out
cold. I picked up the phones/mike combination and listened in, whistled in the mike once and discovered
it was all OK, I was back in business again. Then I said into the mike, "Who was that calling me?"— the
wrong thing to say in a pile-up. Back came about 25 stations; whoever was calling me on that frequency
was clobbered, I then put a little check mark beside the time and report I had already entered in the log.
In the excitement I completely forgot the call sign of whatever was calling me. Sure enough when I got
back home, I found a QSL card from this fellow all filled in with the proper time, date, report, etc. He
mentioned I had returned to his call and that right after I had given him his report said, "Wait a minute,
I've got troubles " Then when these troubles were over with he got smothered with QRM. I sent him a
QSL card, I even wrote him a letter telling him what the trouble was that I had. I never did have one of
those bats land on my head after that. I sort of learned to live with them from then on.
At the time I was on Aldabra, the total population was about 20 people. There are three industries on
the island— fishing, copra, and catching large sea turtles, Which is the best money producer I have no
idea. Possibly it's the fishing. The fishermen are more afraid of the large groper fish than they are of
sharks* It seems that these gropers sort of sneak up on the fishermen (who are in the water spearing
fish), and take a chunk of meat out of him now and again. One fellow I met down there had the calf of
his lower right leg completely gone from a groper bile. They told me they can usually scare a shark away
by making lots of commotion in the water.
The catching of the large sea turtles was interesting work to observe. Usually three fellows go out in one
of the large pirogues (boats). When a turtle is seen they row the boat near the turtle, and they throw a
spear into the back of the turtle j the spear only goes into the turtle's back a few inches. The turtle is
hauled into the boat, turned over on its back and then a few more are caught. When they have a good
haul they come ashore and the turtles are placed in the turtle pond. The spearing of the turtle does him
no harm since the spot where the spear went thru its soft back soon heals over and the turtle is as good
as he ever was.
Life on Aldabra to me seemed very good; everyone had all the food they needed fur I believe each one
there was allowed one pound of rice per day. If they did not use their ration the owner of the island
bought the rice back from them at a fair price, I saw no one beating their brains out working themselves
to death. They all seemed to be sort of taking it easy. I think they are all very satisfied with their job. Of
course, occasionally there is a little trouble between a few fellows, which the island manager soon clears
up. There is even a small |ail on the island that on occasion is occupied, but not very often, I suppose
the island manager is the judge in these disputes. Life to me on Aldabra was very enjoyable; the bands
were open nearly around the clock. With the sun spot count increasing each day noWs I certainly would
like to return to Aldabra, With even 10 meters starting to open again I bet I would have a ball Remember
when I was down there the sun spot count was near the 11 year minimum. The possibility of my
returning there at this time seems to be very remote, if not impossible but if the chance ever turns up I
would like to be on again from down there. Oh, yes, if yon want one of the most delicious meals in the
world, try one of the Aldabra turtle steaks. They are one of the most tender steaks I have eaten.
If you are interested in picking up sea shells by all means go to the Aldabras. they are there by the
thousands just waiting for someone to pick them up, I sent Peggy two large boxes of them. I had already
sent her other sea shells from other spots and she told me, "No more sea shells, please." One extra
large clam fossil I found there was large enough for me to lay down in and be closed shut. We shipped
this one back to Mahe to be put in their museum. The clam from that shell would have fed 30 or 40
people. I guess. Its age was estimated to be more than a thousand years old. With all the birds, fish,
copra, sea shells, bats, and miles and miles of nice sandy sea coast, life there is not bad at all. All the
workers there are men, so there is never any trouble with arguments over some woman.
I stayed on Aldabra Island for 17 days. I found that 17 days is by far too long to stay at one QTH as far
as DXpeditioning is concerned. Give me 7 good days and everyone will be worked who really tries
after that you have to start digging for QSOs. But I was sort of stuck for those 17 days, since Jake the
boat owner had the little Lua-Lua up high on the beach, painting and cleaning it up. He put it up on high
dry sand when the moon was full and had to wait until there was the next extra high tide so he could
float it away again. This extra long stay was not too bad, since there were many things of interest to do
and to look at. Time flew by anyway.
Finally Harvey gave me a call on 20 and said for me to be ready to depart the next morning at 8:30 AM.
Down came the antenna off went the power plant, things were all wrapped up and made ready to load
up the boat. I contacted the manager of the island and told him I would need the use of a pirogue the
next morning with a few fellows to help me load up and row out to the Lua-Lua when it arrived. To bed I
went for the fiist good long night's rest I had since I had arrived at Aldabra. I visited all the workers and
thanked them all for their help, thanked the island manager and took one final look at the camp site, I
was ready to QSY from Aldabra at 8:00 AM.
The Lua-Lua arrived at about 8:15, so out we went in the loaded pirogue. The old SE monsoon by this
time had really got going and we had a heck of a time loading the equipment from the pirogue to the
Lua-Lua, A number of times things nearly went overboard, until we got the swing of the way the waves
were behaving. We would watch for a big swell to start our way, and yell to the fellows in the Lua-Lua to
get all set; then we grabbed an armful of items and waited until the swell pushed our pirogue up high,
parallel with the deck of the Lua-Lua, and in a fast swing handed items to the outstretched arms of the
fellows in the Lua-Lua. This required some split second timing and fast movement on the part of the
fellows on both boats. The last item to leave the pirogue was me. The pirogue departed for the beach,
and we set sail for Mahe,.
The seas were in a very' foul mood all the way back, I finally managed to get my equipment mounted on
the eating table, the old putt-putt fastened down, and I was again /MM Quite a number of waves swept
completely over the ship, and the fellows at the wheel hung on for dear life so they would not be swept
overboard* What a time we had trying to shoot the sun, moon, Venus, etc.. with the horizon very vague;
locating the horizon was a must before any bearings could be taken. All this time I am at the radio
listening to WWV or some other station with standard time signals, calling ulf the seconds. Both Harvey
and Jake had their sextants in their hands. Eventually we would get a shot and Harvey and Jake would
then go to their little desks and start trying to figure where we were! Every now and again they would
actually agree on the same exact spot. One time one of them called out the answers to liis shot and
according to my map we would have been about 300 miles west of Cairo, Egypt, out in the Sahara
Desert! He later re-figured and found that he had subtracted one oi his figures instead of adding. But as
a rule their figures more or less agreed. Dead reckoning helped quite a bit also. In plain English, dead
reckoning means you are located at such and such a place using common sense.
The second day out from Aldabra, on the way back to Mahe, I was on the air having a FB time QSOing
the boys with those breakers breaking over the boat, and bango— the sky hght above my operating
table was struck by an enormous wave^ it was lifted up and about a bathtub full of sea water came on
top of me, the equipment, cameras and all. This brought a sudden silence to the equipment. It was sflent
all the rest of the way back to Mahe, I tried drying it off the best I could with what damp clothes we had
on deck, but it was a long way from being dry. It took us about 10 days to battle our way back to Mahe
all this time the equipment just lay there with the salt water doing its worst to it, parts of the chassis
starting to turn green when we arrived on Mahe. It did not look good to me at all;
I thought for sure that I would have to get word to Ack to send me another KWM-2, but before I sent out
this distress message I decided I would try overcoming this salt water trouble.
Off went the cabinet, and the scrubbing job
began. After two days of hard work, it looked
very nice and clean. I plugged it in, expecting
the smoke to rise from somewhere. There was
no smoke from it, but there were no signs of any
signals from it either. Nor was there any
excitation on transit. The only thing that moved
was the S meter, and it moved backwards. It
looked like I was in for lots more cleaning before
there were going to be any signals from VQ9A.
This time I really dug in. First it got the water
hose treatment! Try squirting water down in
those pretty little if transformers, you will be
surprised the places it squirts out! After a few
days of this cleaning, wiping, polishing, and sponging, things looked very good. This time I placed the
equipment out in the hot Mahe sunshine for two days, turning the chassis over every hour; finally on the
third day I placed it in the oven at the hotels turned the heat up to 160 degrees and let it cook for 6
hours. This time I knew it was dry before I plugged it in. Still the S -meter read backwards, and a very
faint hum could be heard from the phones. On PA plate current position the meter read about 15 mils.
Still no excitation. This time I was ready to send Ack that distress message for sure. After some thought I
decided I would try just once more before sending this message to Ack. This time out came most of the
parts, the if transformers inside were all green, covered with green scum and mildew. Each one was
very carefully cleaned with carbon-tet; the trimmers were taken apart and I noticed the silver plating on
them was starting to peel off; the power transformer was even taken apart and found to be covered with
this green scum. Sometime one of you fellows might try a real cleaning job on the little band switches in
modem-day equipment. This time I spent 3 full days cleaning; then back into the oven again for more
baking, and then with not much hopes it was plugged in. Again the S-meter read backwards—but the
receiver was operating again. Next I tried the transmitter. By golly, it worked I I !
I was back in business again at VQ9A. I could never get the VFO to calibrate right, and when I returned
the set to Collins about two years later, the S-meter was still reading backwards. They sent me a new
VFO to install so the calibration difficulty was eliminated, I never did have any more trouble with the rig
after that, except the usual amount of tube trouble.
Gus
Gus Browning, W4BPD
Hams - W4BPD - Gus Brwning 02